Viaggio Italiano with Mark, Eugenia, Jim and Nora: The Vatican and Castel Sant' Angelo, 14 July

Garibaldi Monument

We had reservations this evening for a tour of the Vatican Museums at 7pm. In the morning we took the #115 bus up across the Gianicolo (highest hill in Rome with panoramic views of the City), and got off at Piazza Garibaldi, dominated by a monumental, equestrian bronze of the great Italian unifier. The view, though panoramic, was limited somewhat by trees that had been allowed to grow too tall. Catching the next bus, we descended the hill to the Santo Spirito Hospital area, crossed the Tiber and walked along its banks to the bridge leading to the main entrance of Castel Sant' Angelo. The hot, humid air was already feeling uncomfortable. The Castel itself is an imposing, circular structure that was originally built as a grand tomb for the Roman Emperor, Hadrian. Over the centuries it evolved into a fortress, serving as a sanctuary for the Popes and the Vatican Treasury during the many invasions and sieges. The Castel has a vast, complicated interior that includes lavishly decorated chambers for the Popes. Unfortunately for us, the tour is all uphill, and it took its toll. A refreshing pause at the snack bar with a charming terrace and sweeping views renewed our energy.

We left the Castel and headed toward St Peter's Basilica, stopping for a long lunch at Da Romolo restaurant. Long lines are everywhere, this time to get through security at St Peter's. It's impossible to describe the grandeur of this greatest of all churches in Christendom. Some highlights were Michelangelo's Pieta', and the tombs of the Popes underneath, which you enter through an almost secret staircase next to a side altar. Here it was quiet with only a few people and cooler. Afterwards came a long hike along the walls of the Vatican to the Museums. Again, more crowds, even though I had purchased tickets in advance. The vastness and numbers of artworks were overwhelming. My favorite is a huge basin carved out of porphyry that came from the Emperor Nero's golden palace. Really tired by now, we took a taxi back to our hotel.