Let's begin by introducing the travelers: Mark and Eugenia Schumacher; Jim and Nora Riley. We are members of the Art League of North Florida based in Lake City. The subject of the trip came up during a conversation at an Art League Gallery reception in June of 2016. Jim and Nora had never been to Italy. Eugenia and I described our timeshare near Cortona, and some of our experiences on other trips. One thing lead to another, and suddenly, I'm planning a trip to Italy for the four of us. We started by researching flights, one of the major expenses, and monitored the fares for several months until, one day in November, it dropped to an attractively low level, and we immediately booked the flight on Delta Airlines from Jacksonville to Atlanta to Rome; and a return flight from Milan. We would spend three nights in Rome, four in our timeshare, Borgo di Vagli, three nights in Florence, three in Venice and an overnight in Milan. All that was left was to book hotels, train travel, car rental while at Borgo di Vagli, and an overnight near Jacksonville Airport, because we would be returning in the evening tired and jet lagged from the long flights.
The year leading up to the trip I researched hotels, trains, car rentals etc., and we had planning meetings and mutually decided on the final itinerary and hotel stays. The timing of the trip was based around our week at Borgo di Vagli, which served as a rest point, and relief from the crowded chaos of the cities we were visiting. Toward the end of the planning phase, I did a cost analysis of the entire trip, and compared it to a very similar trip offered by The Pennsylvania State University alumni association. Our per person cost was around $3,500, compared to the Penn State trip which topped $6,000 per person.
Monday, July 31, 2017
Sunday, July 30, 2017
Off to Italy, 11 July 17
The day we embark on our adventure finally arrives with good weather, flights confirmed, and all on time. The Jacksonville to Atlanta leg leaves at 1:30 pm. Allowing two hours prior to the flight for check in, security, and lunch, and also parking at Jacksonville Plaza Hotel (included in the price of the rooms) when we return, we leave Lake City at 8:30 for the one and one half hour drive to the airport. After a typical sports bar style lunch at Shula's Steakhouse, we board the plane for a forty minute flight to Atlanta. It seems like the boarding and taxiing takes longer than the flight itself, especially in Atlanta. After a long hike through Hartsfield airport and a ride on the subway connecting the terminals, we emerge into the International Terminal where our plane is waiting.
Saturday, July 29, 2017
Arriving in Rome, 12 July 17
One of the most difficult aspects of a transatlantic flight, aside from the uncomfortable quasi sleep for over eight hours, is getting the stiff body moving again, forcing shoes onto slightly swollen feet, then trudging through an unfamiliar airport, customs, and encountering the chaos at baggage claim. I had arranged for a driver to take us to our hotel, Relais Le Clarisse di Trastevere; however, I couldn't pick out our driver from the throng of drivers holding up signs. Finally, after retracing my steps, all-the-while bucking the current of people going in the opposite direction, I caught sight of a sign with the name "Schumacher". Federico was the driver's name, very friendly and chatty, telling us about his former career as a casting agent in the Italian movie industry centered just outside Rome at Cinecitta' Studios. He gave us lots of information, including some restaurant recommendations. Thank the ancient Roman gods for air conditioning, because it was stiflingly hot and humid in Rome.
Forty minutes later, we are in front of the hotel entrance. Low key is an overstatement, just a doorway in a wall with vines growing over it, identified by a discrete, but elegant, brass plaque. Beyond the door was a charming reception area where we were greeted warmly. Only one room was ready, and that was a relief, because we at least had a place to stash our bags and freshen up a little bit before heading out for lunch. It was a pleasure just to flop on the bed and lay supine after a long night of trying to sleep vertically.
We stepped out onto the street and immediately took a wrong turn, and stumbled into the main vegetable outdoor market of Trastevere with stalls brimming with succulent tomatoes, fogs, peaches, plums, radicchio, trevino, finocchio---you name the Italian vegetable; also nice cheese and meat stalls displaying beautiful hunks of veal (23 euros per kilo) and porchetta. Another block later, we found our lunch restaurant, Cajo & Gajo ( pronounced Cayo & Gayo in Roman dialect, the waiter told us). We shared a platter of mixed meats, cheeses, olives and carciofi alla Giudia, a classic dish of flattened artichokes that are deep fried. The outer leaves become crispy and the heart creamy. A shared plate of Cacio e Pepe followed, another classic Roman pasta dish with homemade tonarelli pasta tossed with lots of Caciocavallo cheese and ground black pepper.The cheese melts into a delicious, creamy sauce. We followed it up with a much needed nap back at the hotel.
At around five o'clock, we headed down Viale di Trastevere toward the Tiber River to Piazza Sonnino to pick up out Roma Passes at the PIT information booth. We boarded the #8 tram across the street and were whisked to Piazza Venezia and the impressive Altare della Patria which dominates the area. We walked down Via dei Fori Imperiali toward the Coloseum, admiring the ruins of the Roman Forum and Trajan's Market. The Coloseum was just closing for the day, much to our disappointment. It was now seven o'clock, so we hopped on the #8 tram for a jolting ride back toward Trastevere. At the Porta Portesa stop, we started walking toward our dinner restaurant, Taverna dei Mercanti.
On the Internet, this restaurant got mediocre reviews for food, but raves for it's atmosphere. Across the entire facade was an elevated terrace festooned with potted flowers that overlooked a quiet piazza and an open air restaurant just across, where an old style Italian combo was playing Neapolitan songs. One of the patrons was a trained opera singer with a lovely voice, who sang a few solos. Our food highlight was a mixed grill of chicken, quail, lamb, pork and sausage.
Forty minutes later, we are in front of the hotel entrance. Low key is an overstatement, just a doorway in a wall with vines growing over it, identified by a discrete, but elegant, brass plaque. Beyond the door was a charming reception area where we were greeted warmly. Only one room was ready, and that was a relief, because we at least had a place to stash our bags and freshen up a little bit before heading out for lunch. It was a pleasure just to flop on the bed and lay supine after a long night of trying to sleep vertically.
We stepped out onto the street and immediately took a wrong turn, and stumbled into the main vegetable outdoor market of Trastevere with stalls brimming with succulent tomatoes, fogs, peaches, plums, radicchio, trevino, finocchio---you name the Italian vegetable; also nice cheese and meat stalls displaying beautiful hunks of veal (23 euros per kilo) and porchetta. Another block later, we found our lunch restaurant, Cajo & Gajo ( pronounced Cayo & Gayo in Roman dialect, the waiter told us). We shared a platter of mixed meats, cheeses, olives and carciofi alla Giudia, a classic dish of flattened artichokes that are deep fried. The outer leaves become crispy and the heart creamy. A shared plate of Cacio e Pepe followed, another classic Roman pasta dish with homemade tonarelli pasta tossed with lots of Caciocavallo cheese and ground black pepper.The cheese melts into a delicious, creamy sauce. We followed it up with a much needed nap back at the hotel.
At around five o'clock, we headed down Viale di Trastevere toward the Tiber River to Piazza Sonnino to pick up out Roma Passes at the PIT information booth. We boarded the #8 tram across the street and were whisked to Piazza Venezia and the impressive Altare della Patria which dominates the area. We walked down Via dei Fori Imperiali toward the Coloseum, admiring the ruins of the Roman Forum and Trajan's Market. The Coloseum was just closing for the day, much to our disappointment. It was now seven o'clock, so we hopped on the #8 tram for a jolting ride back toward Trastevere. At the Porta Portesa stop, we started walking toward our dinner restaurant, Taverna dei Mercanti.
On the Internet, this restaurant got mediocre reviews for food, but raves for it's atmosphere. Across the entire facade was an elevated terrace festooned with potted flowers that overlooked a quiet piazza and an open air restaurant just across, where an old style Italian combo was playing Neapolitan songs. One of the patrons was a trained opera singer with a lovely voice, who sang a few solos. Our food highlight was a mixed grill of chicken, quail, lamb, pork and sausage.
Friday, July 28, 2017
A Walk Through the Heart of Rome,13 July 17
After a nice breakfast, included in the price of the room, we caught the #8 tram, which took us across the Tiber to Cairoli. A ten minute stroll opened up onto Campo dei Fiori, the main vegetable and flower market of Rome. We wished we could have bought some of the fresh fruits and vegetables and cooked a Roman meal that night; but, alas, we were in a hotel. So, we just admired the vast selection that included many varieties not available to us in the USA: multicolored cherry tomatoes of every size and shape imaginable, treviso, the elongated variety of radicchio that resembles romaine, only a deep red color, fava beans, all types of eggplant, striped, white, green, and, of course, purple, fennel, a profusion of fruit, and an international array of spices, truffle paste, white and black with a hefty price tag, dried porcini mushrooms, and fresh flowers.
Tearing ourselves away, a short walk took us to Piazza Navona, the huge oval shaped piazza that, in ancient Rome, was a velodrome and retains that same shape. At this hour of the morning, the hordes of tourists had not arrived, and we were treated to the rare sight of this beautiful piazza with very few people. The most striking features of Piazza Navona are the wonderful fountains from the Baroque period, the Fontana del Moro, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, which depicts the four major rivers of the world with allegorical sculptures and is topped by an ancient Egyptian obelisk; and, finally, the Fontana de Nettuno, the God of the sea. We looked inside the church of Sant' Agnese in Agone (Saint Agnes in Agony) with it's impressive dome and monumental paintings and sculptures of many saints of the Catholic Church.
Next stop: The Pantheon, one of the best preserved buildings of Ancient Rome. The first glimpse of it, looking down a narrow street, takes the breath away. Entering the Piazza della Rotunda, it astounds with it's monumentality. The mood was enhanced by a cellist performing in the middle of the piazza. The sun lit the building at just the right angle to bring out the textures of the walls and the architectural details. Inside, the oculus sent a shaft of brilliant sunlight against the circular walls.
As we approached the Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain) you could feel the growing surge of people and hear the loudening murmur of human voices. The Fountain had been meticulously cleaned since the last time Eugenia and I had seen it, now a creamy buff color with rushing, transparent water, like a swimming pool. We observed Italian soldiers armed with machine guns at all of these sites;comforting, but at the same time, sinister; because it conjured up visions of terrorist attacks. The oppressive crowds diminished the experience here, and we were grateful to have seen the other sites without their presence.
We took a break for lunch on the way to Scala Spagna (Spanish Steps) at a snack bar that had some air conditioning, because the heat was really building. The waiter was a hapless Indian fellow, and no matter what he did, the owners of the cafe didn't like it, and gave him hell.The cool water and beer were most welcome; however, the sandwiches, one a shrimp salad between two large, triangular pieces of bread and a sun dried tomato/mozzarella/arugula panini, were a shade below mediocre, especially the so called shrimp sandwich, which upon opening, had a bead of tiny shrimp along the open edge, and the rest was just chopped lettuce. This was the first scam that we were aware of, and Nora, rightfully so, demanded and got a refund. What can one expect when you pick the restaurant out of a hat in the tourist zone epicenter?
Next was the Spanish Steps, which are nice, but, in my opinion, don't deserve the adulation they get. Roma passes in hand, we descended into the Metropolitane on our way to the Piazza della Republica. The first train was packed, and we couldn't get on; but it was OK; because pickpockets lurk on the trains, and it's easy for them to rifle through your pockets when you are pressed cheek to jowl. (Years ago a thief got $300 from Eugenia riding this very same stretch of track.
As we emerged from the Metro into the bright sunlight, we could see the Baths of Diocletian on the opposite side of the busy Piazza della Republica. Our objective was to visit Santa Maria degli Angeli (Holy Mary of the Angels) Basilica, which was designed by Michelangelo and built within one of the vast chambers of the Baths.
The plain, brick facade is decorated in an understated fashion with 21th century bronze doors and sculptures emerging from the ancient walls by Polish artist, Igor Mitoraj. A hush envelops you as you enter, and you suppress a gasp at the grand scale of the Basilica, not to mention the lavish Baroque decoration. A striking bronze, contemporary sculpture, Angelo della Luce (Angel of Light) greets you with an outstretched hand that seems welcoming at first, but could also be a warning or admonition. An interesting feature is the linear sundial embedded in the marble floor which stretches at an angle across the entire width of the Basilica.
Now, worn down by the heat, humidity and walking, we trudge toward the Stazione Termini to catch a bus back to Trastevere and out hotel. The lurching ride through the business center of Rome is bone bruising, and it seems as if the whole bus could shake apart. The faces on the bus seem like a cross section of the entire human race.
A nap and refreshing shower does wonders,and the temperature is pleasant as we walk to this evening's restaurant, Spirito di Vino, for dinner.
 |
| Piazza Navona |
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| Four Rivers Fountain and St Agnes Church |
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| Pantheon |
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| Interior Pantheon |
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| Trevi Fountain |
Next stop: The Pantheon, one of the best preserved buildings of Ancient Rome. The first glimpse of it, looking down a narrow street, takes the breath away. Entering the Piazza della Rotunda, it astounds with it's monumentality. The mood was enhanced by a cellist performing in the middle of the piazza. The sun lit the building at just the right angle to bring out the textures of the walls and the architectural details. Inside, the oculus sent a shaft of brilliant sunlight against the circular walls.
As we approached the Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain) you could feel the growing surge of people and hear the loudening murmur of human voices. The Fountain had been meticulously cleaned since the last time Eugenia and I had seen it, now a creamy buff color with rushing, transparent water, like a swimming pool. We observed Italian soldiers armed with machine guns at all of these sites;comforting, but at the same time, sinister; because it conjured up visions of terrorist attacks. The oppressive crowds diminished the experience here, and we were grateful to have seen the other sites without their presence.
We took a break for lunch on the way to Scala Spagna (Spanish Steps) at a snack bar that had some air conditioning, because the heat was really building. The waiter was a hapless Indian fellow, and no matter what he did, the owners of the cafe didn't like it, and gave him hell.The cool water and beer were most welcome; however, the sandwiches, one a shrimp salad between two large, triangular pieces of bread and a sun dried tomato/mozzarella/arugula panini, were a shade below mediocre, especially the so called shrimp sandwich, which upon opening, had a bead of tiny shrimp along the open edge, and the rest was just chopped lettuce. This was the first scam that we were aware of, and Nora, rightfully so, demanded and got a refund. What can one expect when you pick the restaurant out of a hat in the tourist zone epicenter?
Next was the Spanish Steps, which are nice, but, in my opinion, don't deserve the adulation they get. Roma passes in hand, we descended into the Metropolitane on our way to the Piazza della Republica. The first train was packed, and we couldn't get on; but it was OK; because pickpockets lurk on the trains, and it's easy for them to rifle through your pockets when you are pressed cheek to jowl. (Years ago a thief got $300 from Eugenia riding this very same stretch of track.
As we emerged from the Metro into the bright sunlight, we could see the Baths of Diocletian on the opposite side of the busy Piazza della Republica. Our objective was to visit Santa Maria degli Angeli (Holy Mary of the Angels) Basilica, which was designed by Michelangelo and built within one of the vast chambers of the Baths.
 |
| Spanish Steps |
 |
| Sundial |
| Bronze Door |
Now, worn down by the heat, humidity and walking, we trudge toward the Stazione Termini to catch a bus back to Trastevere and out hotel. The lurching ride through the business center of Rome is bone bruising, and it seems as if the whole bus could shake apart. The faces on the bus seem like a cross section of the entire human race.
A nap and refreshing shower does wonders,and the temperature is pleasant as we walk to this evening's restaurant, Spirito di Vino, for dinner.
Thursday, July 27, 2017
The Vatican and Castel Sant' Angelo, 14 July
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| Garibaldi Monument |
We left the Castel and headed toward St Peter's Basilica, stopping for a long lunch at Da Romolo restaurant. Long lines are everywhere, this time to get through security at St Peter's. It's impossible to describe the grandeur of this greatest of all churches in Christendom. Some highlights were Michelangelo's Pieta', and the tombs of the Popes underneath, which you enter through an almost secret staircase next to a side altar. Here it was quiet with only a few people and cooler. Afterwards came a long hike along the walls of the Vatican to the Museums. Again, more crowds, even though I had purchased tickets in advance. The vastness and numbers of artworks were overwhelming. My favorite is a huge basin carved out of porphyry that came from the Emperor Nero's golden palace. Really tired by now, we took a taxi back to our hotel.
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| Castel Sant' Angelo |
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| View from Castel |
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| St Peter's Basilica from Castel |
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| Archangel Michael atop Castel |
Wednesday, July 26, 2017
Off to Cortona by Train, Saturday 15 July 17
Today we travel by train to our time share in Tuscany, Borgo di Vagli. We need to get to Stazione Termini at least an hour before our train leaves at 0900, because it's a vast station and you never know how far you have to walk to get to the correct platform until your train appears on the schedule board. Fortunately the taxi arrived on time and the traffic is light on Saturday mornings. At first there seemed to be conflicting information as to the platform number, but it soon coalesced to "binario 1 est". Roughly translated, it meant your platform is in east Jesus, the extreme east side of the station. It was crucial that we get on this train; otherwise, the car rental agency in Terontola would close and the domino effect would take over, spelling vacation disaster.
As it were, the gods favored us, and off we went into the Italian countryside . . . . . .but, not so fast. The gods never let you forget who's in charge. We were in out seats congratulating ourselves on how much room we had with all the empty seats. At precisely 8:55, the Visigoths descended on our car carrying tons of luggage, crying babies, shouting into cell phones, hurling bags over us onto the racks above our seats, and sending wafts of human BO through the car. The gods have a way of setting us straight.
The two hour trip was pleasant enough, and our car was waiting for us at the rental agency. We drove through Camucia, the modern town at the base of Cortona to Ristorante Pizzeria Cantanapoli, a nice restaurant on the edge of town with Neapolitan style food. A standout dish was the linguine with lobster. After, we had fun food shopping at the COOP, an Italian supermarket chain, because we would be doing much of our own cooking for the next few days at Borgo di Vagli.
As it were, the gods favored us, and off we went into the Italian countryside . . . . . .but, not so fast. The gods never let you forget who's in charge. We were in out seats congratulating ourselves on how much room we had with all the empty seats. At precisely 8:55, the Visigoths descended on our car carrying tons of luggage, crying babies, shouting into cell phones, hurling bags over us onto the racks above our seats, and sending wafts of human BO through the car. The gods have a way of setting us straight.
The two hour trip was pleasant enough, and our car was waiting for us at the rental agency. We drove through Camucia, the modern town at the base of Cortona to Ristorante Pizzeria Cantanapoli, a nice restaurant on the edge of town with Neapolitan style food. A standout dish was the linguine with lobster. After, we had fun food shopping at the COOP, an Italian supermarket chain, because we would be doing much of our own cooking for the next few days at Borgo di Vagli.
Tuesday, July 25, 2017
Arriving at Borgo di Vagli
The drive from Camucia to Borgo di Vagli is a beautiful experience I have yet to tire of. The road winds up the hill and passes below Cortona; then stretches through the Tuscan countryside passing through farmers fields and small villages until it reaches the base of some more serious mountains. Your ears pop as the road climbs and winds with gorgeous vistas at each turn. Then the road heads down the far side of the mountain, and suddenly the ruins of an ancient castle appears. This is Castel Pierla built in the twelth century and birthplace of a pope. Just past the Castel a rustic sign directs us to Borgo di Vagli; but here the road is dirt, one lane and precipitous, not to mention tortuous. Finally a tiny cluster of stone buildings appear high on the side of a moutain across a valley. This is Borgo di Vagli, our home for the next few days.
We are greeted warmly, like old friends, by Stefania and staff. After check in and unpacking, we settle in to our Tuscan home and finally relax. It's been a long day. We are ready to cook our first real Tuscan dinner. Since lunch today was a full, three course meal, we made a salad with the fresh produce from the COOP accompanied by a loaf of rustic Tuscan bread.
We are greeted warmly, like old friends, by Stefania and staff. After check in and unpacking, we settle in to our Tuscan home and finally relax. It's been a long day. We are ready to cook our first real Tuscan dinner. Since lunch today was a full, three course meal, we made a salad with the fresh produce from the COOP accompanied by a loaf of rustic Tuscan bread.
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