Arriving in Rome, 12 July 17

One of the most difficult aspects of a transatlantic flight, aside from the uncomfortable quasi sleep for over eight hours, is getting the stiff body moving again, forcing shoes onto slightly swollen feet, then trudging through an unfamiliar airport, customs, and encountering the chaos at baggage claim.  I had arranged for a driver to take us to our hotel, Relais Le Clarisse di Trastevere; however, I couldn't pick out our driver from the throng of drivers holding up signs.  Finally, after retracing my steps, all-the-while bucking the current of people going in the opposite direction, I caught sight of a sign with the name "Schumacher".  Federico was the driver's name, very friendly and chatty, telling us about his former career as a casting agent in the Italian movie industry centered just outside Rome at Cinecitta' Studios.  He gave us lots of information, including some restaurant recommendations. Thank the ancient Roman gods for air conditioning, because it was stiflingly hot and humid in Rome.

Forty minutes later, we are in front of the hotel entrance.  Low key is an overstatement, just a doorway in a wall with vines growing over it, identified by a discrete, but elegant, brass plaque.  Beyond the door was a charming reception area where we were greeted warmly.  Only one room was ready, and that was a relief, because we at least had a place to stash our bags and freshen up a little bit before heading out for lunch.  It was a pleasure just to flop on the bed and lay supine after a long night of trying to sleep  vertically.

We stepped out onto the street and immediately took a wrong turn, and stumbled into the main vegetable outdoor market of Trastevere with stalls brimming with succulent tomatoes, fogs, peaches, plums, radicchio, trevino, finocchio---you name the Italian vegetable; also nice cheese and meat stalls displaying beautiful hunks of veal (23 euros per kilo) and porchetta.  Another block later, we found our lunch restaurant, Cajo & Gajo ( pronounced Cayo & Gayo in Roman dialect, the waiter told us). We shared a platter of mixed meats, cheeses, olives and carciofi alla Giudia, a classic dish of flattened artichokes that are  deep fried.  The outer leaves become crispy and the heart creamy. A shared plate of Cacio e Pepe followed, another classic Roman pasta dish with homemade tonarelli pasta tossed with lots of Caciocavallo cheese and ground black pepper.The cheese melts into a delicious, creamy sauce.  We followed it up with a much needed nap back at the hotel.

At around five o'clock, we headed down Viale di Trastevere toward the Tiber River to Piazza Sonnino to pick up out Roma Passes at the PIT information booth.  We boarded the #8 tram across the street and were whisked to Piazza Venezia and the impressive Altare della Patria which dominates the area.  We walked down Via dei Fori Imperiali toward the Coloseum, admiring the ruins of the Roman Forum and Trajan's Market.  The Coloseum was just closing for the day, much to our disappointment. It was now seven o'clock, so we hopped on the #8 tram for a jolting ride back toward Trastevere.  At the Porta Portesa stop, we started walking toward our dinner restaurant, Taverna dei Mercanti.

On the Internet, this restaurant got mediocre reviews for food, but raves for it's atmosphere.  Across the entire facade was an elevated terrace festooned with potted flowers that overlooked a quiet piazza and an open air restaurant just across, where an old style Italian combo was playing Neapolitan songs.  One of the patrons was a trained opera singer with a lovely voice, who sang a few solos. Our food highlight was a mixed grill of chicken, quail, lamb, pork and sausage.